Looking into Indra Jatra, Kathmandu’s biggest celebration

Indra Jatra, Nepal’s most prominent religious street festival locally known as ‘Yenya’ in Kathmandu, signifies the union of ‘Yen’ (Kathmandu) and ‘Ya’ (celebration). Within Yenya, two significant events take place. The first, Kumari Jatra, spans three days where three chariots, representing revered deities like goddess Kumari, lord Ganesh, and lord Bhairava, are ceremoniously paraded along diverse festive routes in Kathmandu. Meanwhile, Indra Jatra, honoring the lord of heaven and rain in Hindu mythology, is a festivity filled with hopes for abundant rainfall in the upcoming year. Centuries of tradition have tied local farmers closely to this celebration, which typically spans 7-8 days, culminating in a spectacular display during the initial days of Indra Jatra.

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This celebration was started by King Gunakamadeva, founder of city of Kathmandu, in 723 AD. He started this festival in remembrance of the founding of the Kathmandu Valley. This festival has been celebrated with the same authenticity since then. There are many folk tales relating to this festival. The famous one among them is about lord Indra. Lord Indra came down to earth from heaven in search of parijat (night Jasmin) for his mother. He was caught stealing the flower from the garden and bounded like a common thief. He was put on display in the town square of Kathmandu. His mother, worried about his late return, came to Kathmandu and wandered around the valley. After people found out that they have bounded the lord Indrahimself, they were horrified and immediately released him. Out of appreciation for Indra’s release his mother promised to provide enough dew throughout the winter so that the crops would grow properly. It is believed that after that time Kathmandu started to have misty morning in the winter.

Highlights

Towering of lingo:
lingo is a ceremonial pole selected to be erected and worshipped during different festivals in Nepal.it is chosen from the straight trees found in kavre of Nepal. The tree is cut down, branches cut off and stripped of its bark. The towering of lingo marks the starting of the IndraJatra festivals. People use thick ropes to erect the 36-foot wooden pole. The banner of lord Indra is place on the top of the pole, showing that it is the land of lord Indra.

Lighting incense sticks:
the people who have lost loved ones in the past year, the incense sticks are burned at various temples around the Kathmandu valley. This ritual is to respect the deceased one so that others can wholeheartedly be involved in the coming celebrations.

Unveiling of the Sweta Bhairava in Kathmandu Durbar square:
Bhairava is the more terrifying form of lord Shiva. It was built to protect the city from all the threats. The huge mask of Bhairava is kept behind wooden windows throughout the year. It is unveiled on the first day of IndraJatra till the end of the festival. A long pipe is placed on the mouth of the Bhairava during the festival. In the evening, traditional Nepalisliquors and rice beer are distributed to the public through the pipe with a crowd of men.

Kumari Jatra
Kumari Jatrawas is a tradition formed around 1756 AD. It was started by the king Jaya Prakash Malla. Kumari Jatra starts on the third day of the IndraJatra. The head of the country visits the Kumari and receives blessings for their rule. They bow before the living goddess and receive tika from her hand. Men pull the chariots of Ganesh, Bhairava, and Kumari to different parts of Kathmandu. Traditional music, bands, and dances accompany the march. The march usually starts at 3 pm.on the first day of KumariJatra, the chariots are pulled to the downtown area following the route starting from Basantapur, Maru, lagan, Wonde, Kohity, and Bhimsenthan and returning to Basantapur. On the second day of the Jatra, the chariots are pulled through the uptown area following the route starting from Basantapur, Pyaphal, Nyata, Tengal, Asan, Indrachwok, Makhan and returned to Bansantapur. On the third day, the chariots are pulled through mid-town areas following the routes starting from Basantapur, Pyapal, Yatkha, Nyata, Kilgal, Indrachwok, and Makhan and returned to Basantapur.

Masked dance
Different traditional dances performed by the possessed men wearing colorful clothes are the most interesting activity of IndraJatra. Certain communities or neighborhoods perform some of the masked dances.

Pulukisi (elephant) dance
The residents of Kilagal Tole perform this dance. They create a straw-woven and wooden masked elephant, representing it as the ride of lord Indras. It is carried in the streets of Kathmandu, enacting the search for the Indra’s elephant during his imprisonment. People cheer and dance while carrying the elephant, usually accompanied by a musical band. A person runs in front carrying a torch. Elephant runs through the streets, knocking anyone in its path.

Lakhey dance
A Lakhey is a man-eating demon wearing a huge red mask with scary big eyes, stuck-out fangs, jagged teeth, and a dark wig. People believe that the spirit of Lakhey resides within the mask of Lakhey. As a dancer puts on the mask, the spirit of Lakhey possesses him, and the demon controls his movement. The Lakhey starts to dance while intimidating the people all around him. Lakhey dance has a swift movement of hands while running on the beat of music. Lakhey pushes anyone on its path while the crowd follows him with fascination.

The lingo erected on the first day is taken down on the last day of IndraJatra. Indra’s flag (Indradhwaj) is floated away in the Bagmati river. This marks the end of the IndraJatra festival. IndraJatra brings people from all over the country from different cultures and communities. Not only the Newars of Kathmandu but the other people outside the valley gather together to see the festival. There is no restriction toward any community or religion to observe the festival. It is an amazing experience to be in Durbar Square during the festival of IndraJatra. IndraJatra also marks the start of the two biggest festivals of Nepal, Dashain and Tihar. If you are planning your trip to Nepal around September or October, you can consider making a plan accordingly. For more information on Nepalese culture and Nepal travel, contact us at RedCarpet Journey.